DarkMoon ICE Build Plate for Bambu Lab Printers
The DarkMoon ICE build plate for Bambu Lab X1C/P1S/P1P/A1 printers is a first of its kind textured PEI plate. Using a heavily modified PEI formulation that is powder coated on both sides of the plate, bed adhesion increase in orders of magnitude over all other PEI plates in the market. ICE’s adhesive properties are so strong, you don’t even need to heat the bed to achieve adhesion (although, it might help in some cases).
ICE ICE BABY
Hot Summer. Cold Printer.
Print it Cold.
Warping is a thing of the past.
The DarkMoon ICE Build Plate can print PLA, PETG, ABS, and ASA at ambient temperatures. Stop worrying about drafts in unclosed printers like the P1P and A1 and keep the aux fan on during prints on your P1S and X1C. Warping is a thing of the past.
Strong Adhesion. High Durability
The DarkMoon ICE features best-in-class adhesion by utilizing the gripping strength of textured PEI along with a coating of a special epoxy polymer. The PEI and epoxy work together to hold your prints tight.
Big Flexy.
While the ICE plate has unmatched adhesive qualities, you can also pop prints right off the build plate when you give a few flexes to each side.
Double Sided.
Double the lifespan of your plate and quickly start a new print if you happen to have dirtied up one side!
...and even more!
Easy Cleaning
Simply wipe the ICE plate with a damp washcloth to clean. Do NOT use any solvents like isopropyl alcohol or acetone. Water is all you need.
Bed Detection
The Textured PEI Plate ArUco (QR) code is included on the build plate so it may be recognized by the Bambu Lab X1C. The code is on both sides of the build plate.
Built for Bambu
We took great care to make the dimensions of our build plates as close to Bambu Lab’s OEM plates as possible, so the transition between Bambu Lab and DarkMoon build plates is totally seamless.
Recommended Temperatures
Like we said before, the ICE plate doesn't need heating, but it also won't hurt to add some if you feel like it. Here are some recommended bed temperatures for each supported material.
NOTE: While other materials like Nylons, PC, HIPS, etc. are not listed here, many users have reported success using these settings. They are still not recommended as long term use has not been studied.
25-60°C
30-70°C
Unsupported, do not print.
30-90°C
FAQ
How do I clean the ICE Plate?
Let us reiterate: DO NOT EVER clean the ICE build plate with isopropyl alcohol or acetone.
To clean the ICE plate, simply use hot water to wet a cloth and wipe down the build surface with mild force applied. You do not need to use soap or detergent.
Is it bad if my prints leave a ghost image behind once removed?
No, this will happen with various filaments. They fade quickly and typically do not transfer to the next surface. You can clean them off usually, but they always go away after a few more prints.
Why can't I print TPU?
TPU will fuse to the ICE plate surface. Please do not print TPU on it.
I can't remove my print!
Use a printed scraper to get under the edge of the print. Small surface area bottom layers can sometimes be hard to get off since flexing won't help much. Be patient and diligent and it will come off.
Can I use glue on the ICE plate?
Glue is not necessary or recommended. If you applied glue by mistake, use warm water and a washcloth to remove the glue.
This plate does not work as advertised. I'm not able to print any objects with greater size, compared to a normal PEI plate, with no warp.
I Pre heat the chamber in my P1S with an active chamber heater + the heated bed at 100 degrees + aux fan on + heavy blankets covering the entirety of the printer, for 3 hours, to reach a stable temperature of 63 degrees celsius. This is all to no avail, I have horrible warping.
The only upside is the print not outright ripping off the plate and sliding around as on the stock textured PEI sheet from bambulabs.
See attached images, its the Hexibox Dual Tang Band W3-1876S Subwoofer.
The two halves of the subwoofer were printed on a 0.6mm nozzle at 0.3mm layer height with a 5mm brim. Bottom surface was archimedean chords, so was the internal infill. The infill was 40% gyroid. Roughly 550g of white ABS from Eryone3D was used for both halves, taking 12 hours to print each half.
The front cover used 60g of white ABS from Eryone3D and took 2.5 hours to print, using the same settings as for the subwoofer itself.
The subwoofer is skewed enough to make it useless; I can't mount the drivers due to the holes being too small, nor can I mount the front cover due to the screw holes disappearing into the warp of the subwoofer.
Bought this to use with ASA on the X1C for our production prints. Never got a print to stay on the plate, even by bumping up to the max recommended temperature of 90C. If I have to go any higher, or use glue, what's the point? Back to normal PEI at 110C for us I guess.
I've only printed with PLA and PETG - every print has had very good adhesion, no issues at all. The finish is similar to the Bambu Textured plate, but smoother. Personally, I like it better than the Bambu plate. Super easy to clean with just a damp rag. Very happy with it so far.
Excellent first layer adhesion. Every print a success.
Does exactly what it says on the tin, the plate to end all plates. Fantastic!